The fifties were a hinge that closes the door on the second world war and like a magic trick, opened the same door to the leisure society. In this new perspective that comes with a wind and a desire for freedom associated with pleasure, the woman becomes pretty doll pin-up that will embody a new hope. The garment is social, political, cultural. The clothing in the 50s, from 1947 to 1957 is the polaroid of this fashion in France.
Look in the viewfinder backlight to understand
Far from proposing a way we could think congealed, Olivier Saillard Commissioner General, Director of the Musée Galliera and Alexandra Bosc, scientific curator accompanied by members of the Museum’s conservation make clothing more alive than ever. Without falling into nostalgia-stereotypes of “it was better before,” invitation to travel “modascopique” in time decompartmentalizes the world to go to the meeting of 7 th art.
A ticket for a style
Every Friday at 20 pm until 31 October, projections of legendary films put image on film the bodies of actresses inhabited by their role and define the outfit as a time to dress. So, simply take your ticket to the cinema Le Grand Action at 5, rue Schools in Paris in the V e arrondissement.
The beautiful idea is to purchase a full fare ticket. This will make you eligible for a reduced rate at the Palais Galliera for exposure, and vice versa. The full price ticket bought at the Palais Galliera will entitle you to a discount to immerse you in absolute darkness of a movie theater revealed by the rustling of a coil to see, discover, observe and love.
Broadcast an image
Cinema has always broadcast modes. In the postwar period, “go to the movies” is the act that plunged the audience into a space-time to re-new. August 15, Edward and Caroline Jacques Becker (1951) will screen big screen. Follow the Roman Holiday William Wyler 1953 to chain September 12 with Couturier of the ladies of Jean Boyer (1956). On 19 September, you can enjoy Designing Woman Vincente Minnelli (1957). On 26 September it was the turn of Billy Wilder to offer us his Ariadne(1957).
If Paris is a perfect setting for a French fashion spread in cinema on October 3 Roberto Rossellini will invite us to his Italian Journey , the work of 1954. Intrigue and tension October 10 with To Catch a Thief Alfred Hitchcock’s 1955 … Pain , love and Dreams of Luigi Comencini (1953), on 17 October. Seven days later it will be the opportunity to make A Place in the Sun by George Stevens (1951). 31 October 2014 reached its creative peak with … And God Created Woman by Roger Vadim, 1956 Carole Lombard movie, Deborah Kerr, Gina Lollobrigida, Claudette Colbert, Elysabeth Taylor, Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn and Brigitte Bardot are the faces of this new woman.
Pleasures and freedoms
Leisure cinema is a pleasure causing great sensations, even when you missed any during the occupation. Rationing pluralism desires, shortages caused by the Second World War were felt on the fashion industry. The style of the war inspired by military uniforms. The ladies suit is adjusted to square shoulders. The skirt is short just to above the knee. The heads are topped with small caps. The messenger bag is functional, like shoes. During the war, the amount of tissue and siding used in the production are controlled. Chanel put its house in stand-by. Molyneux, Worth spin in England. Jacques Heim Jewish lies.
Balenciaga, Fath, Nina Ricci, Lanvin, Rochas, Jean Patou and Lelong continue their activities. From four lines of basic, England, the Incorporated Society of London Designers, drew 32 clothing utility. Fabrics adopted little reasons not spoil anything during cutting and facilitate connections. Women re-used old clothes they dismounted and went up to offer them new life. The scarves became turbans and hair nets animated hats. Paris, isolated from the world, shone more as the capital of international fashion. The elegant trod the asphalt of the city in patched shoes cork, colored legs with chicory and a dash of black pencil to effect low-wand.
An experimental theater mode
The 50s are important for the status of French haute couture. Weakened since the 1929 crisis and the war, she is reborn to become eternal. In this “national heritage” the who’s who account Jacques Heim, Chanel, Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, Jacques Fath for older; Pierre Balmain, Christian Dior, Jacques Griffe, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Cardin newly appeared.
After the Liberation in 1945, artists and French designers proposed the Fashion Theatre, a traveling exhibition of wire dolls, miniatures to dream with collections spring / summer of the current year beyond our borders.
This spirit “dollhouse” is found, therefore, in the scenography of Julie Boidin where catwalks and picture rails, in a gray shade, chic, neutral, punctuate the theme throughout the exhibition-See more at: Inhabited by a sewing mind
We are, therefore, in our present, inhabited by the looks of the past. A time when the woman is both a good housekeeper, a woman-loving mistress wife, an adored mother who has to reincarnate the super-feminine glamor and absolute charm. The pin-up has fallen airmen of the cockpit to spread into homes while keeping a certain standing. In its range, every moment, every moment wears an outfit in line with the aspirations of customs. Dressing consists of a day wardrobe, an evening wardrobe, beach dresses and campaign for cocktail dresses. In this redefinition of femininity and this societal resizing of women, the line silhouette follows the desires of the time. The Basques mark sizes. Petticoats cause of erotic fantasies.
The corolla skirts will stage female flowers while increasing production flowered or striped in bright colors printed fabrics. Pointed shoes give a sense of power while validating the absolute femininity. A woman perched on stilettos arches her back, is growing and puts his chest forward. This is great, breasts are conical. Tailors skirt “pencil” and wasp waist transform the curves like a mannequin doll. Dresses bustiers-sleeves invoke a film projection. Cocktail dresses are preppy . Embroidery rock crystals are the little bit of madness of the decade. But this desire to please and willingness to entertain a more relaxed mode appears in tight sweaters, pants and jeans privateers. The baby boomer generation also illustrates this pivotal period.
In the exhibition course designed like a chessboard styles, beginning in 1947, Christian Dior is “checkmate” by proposing a dressed queen of a corolla style. Carmel Snow, editor of Harper’s Bazaar noticed this new woman flower in sharp chest, waist and dug emphasized belly, rounded hips and really full skirt. Everything is drawn. The New Look was born. Balenciaga line called “barrel”, will echo the part that plays with volumes flared in the back and around the waist. Out with New Look, the Chanel line will place his pawn in the game graphics in black and white: a law and business suit in 1954. From black and white, tweed, there is a line strategy follow or not. The woman imagined by the creators is a cinematic icon. The media broadcasts an image of women that makes boomerang effect in the minds of those who dress. Day wear and evening are transpositions “glamourisantes” and fatal strokes stylized pencil couturiers.
The shoulders are round. They are fleeing a menu bust. Hips flourish down strangulated sizes. The legs are sketched as two shots felt settled. It is no coincidence that Barbie from a height of 29 cm is marketed by Mattel, an American company founded in 1945 by Matson and Handler. Ruth Handler created Barbie in 1959 by copying and reinventing, German Bild Lilli doll a creature of the 1950s sold in tobacconists for adults only. Men have the same desires for a new sexy femininity.
When the ladies, since 1947, they know that a multitude of below shape the silhouette. Creating a doll modeled line of designer sketches, the corset slimming sign of a waistline. The “tilting” sheath clears the hips compresses the back. The pigeon breasts clearly separates and allows deep necklines. Lingerie initiates evasive or curved line.
To each his fetish
So we will imagine well Olivier Saillard describe, as in the days of “firsts” workshops which announced the passages shows, one by one the figures proposed in the day’s wardrobe: a morning suit, travel tailor, a classic suit, a two-room morning a traveling cloak, coat every day, a luncheon dress, a dress afternoon, an afternoon dress dressed a whole afternoon simple, a robe of fine afternoon, a late afternoon dress, a set to receive a set of travel, a weekend together, a set of cabaret, a housecoat, a city dress, a small dinner dress …
Following up on this evening dress guard of dress parade, garden party dress, bridesmaid dress, cocktail dress, evening dress of small, restaurant dress, dinner dress, dress to dance, gala dress, gala dress, summer dress, reception gown, overall great night of evening sheath dress, high evening dress, dress very grand evening ceremony gown. We will then take the key fields with a beach dress, holiday dress, a country dress and spa towns, a housecoat, a sailor, a blouse, a pirate, a stole, a whole range bathrobe, overalls, linen trousers, shorts, sarong, a bathing suit, a straw hat. The intoxication in a rustle of taffeta and silk will culminate with a corset, a jacket, a hip belt, a balconette balconette a diaper, a combination, a bra, a pirate, a panty, stockings, tights.
The trilogy luxury, elegance and innovation in this period of change, is accompanied by the advent of ready-to-wear. The concept of leisure for the masses is accompanied by clothes that are available for everyone and for all occasions, while returning a social caste. The profession is thus converted to ready-to-wear. “Associates Dressmakers” include Jacques Fath, Robert Piguet, Paquin, Carven and Jean Dessès. They founded the first company specializing in the distribution under license from ready-to-wear fashion designers since 1950. 100 models and accessories put in forms and looks the whole evolution of the figure of 1947 to 1957, of the birth of New Look the disappearance of Christian Dior and the arrival of Yves Saint Laurent. Times change, the memories remain and styles re-invent a near or distant future based on TheViennaStyle.
To be continued
Until November 2, 2014, so go check out the silhouettes orchestrated the Musée Galliera. The address has not changed: 10, avenue Pierre I er of Serbia in the XVI th arrondissement of Paris. The palace museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10h to 18h, except holidays. There is even a night Thursday until 21h for those who having seen and contemplated the exhibition would wander in Paris by Night , illuminated film.
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