Kamakura High-End Shirts

Japan is well known for its hairy and unstructured brands, such as Comme des Garçons. But we also knew Japan in high school and later for the toyotism and the rationalization to the extreme of the production.

You are therefore entitled to expect a brand with a very good quality / price ratio, thanks to smarter production methods, and a supply of fabric a little new (which for once would not necessarily use Cotton, which costs more to bring).

This brand, some of you already know it thanks to the first guide of shirts: it is Kamakura.
It combines three typical characteristics of many Japanese brands: attention to detail, Ivy League inspiration, and a new Japanese fabric.

Go Further: The Folder Guide

I updated the shirt guide, on the same model as the costume guide: it is even more optimized to buy online and will give you lots of good plans to buy shirts of prestigious workshops for three times nothing. If you have already purchased the first folder guide, you will receive a free update of it.
In short, it goes out Sunday 28 August.

The extract comes out (no fault) on Friday. Register below to get it:

Kamakura High-End Shirts 3

I History

Japanese cult brands are gradually emerging on the menswear scene with well-made basics: Visvim, Standard Journal or United Arrows.

There is also
something to do with shirts with the Kamakura brand: their cut is good, the styles are varied and they are made in Japan. On top of that, they have an excellent value for money.
Kamakura was founded in 1993 by Yoshio Sadasue, then 72 years old, after several years of experience
in preppy-oriented heritage clothes and Ivy League. He worked at VAN Jacket from 1966 to 1978.

He is a true purist in the manufacture of shirts: here you will not find shirts without ironing, which are even considered as pure sartorial affronts. All shirts are made in Japan with
real attention to detail.

Ii Buttoned Collar And Ivy Style

The titration begins at 80 and all the buttons are made of natural mother-of-pearl. All his meticulousness and demands come from his mentor, Kensuke Ishizu, the founder of VAN shirts.
We also find the famous English seams (I speak in the ultimate guide of the shirt) and wrists covered.
The manufacture of the famous buttoned collar of the oxford shirt has remained more faithful than with emblematic brands like Brooks Brothers, who have lost their know-how as and when relocations.
The technique is rare: there is a covered neck (not thermally bonded), and the upper layer is slightly longer than the lower layer, so that it rolls slightly from top to bottom.

Kamakura High-End Shirts 2

In contrast, other brands that offer the buttoned collar are passed to the thermocollate, and do not play on this difference in height.

In short, the button-down collar (which the English speakers call the OCBD, Oxford Closed Button Down, because the buttoned collar is mostly seen on oxford shirts) is a signature signature of Kamakura, which accounts for about 60% of its sales in Japan.

Iii Cups And Collars

The brand has two main stores: one in New York and the other in Tokyo. You can imagine it … there is no more difference in morphology than an American and a Japanese. As a result, the brand has planned two different cuts: one for New York and one more slim for Tokyo. It is up to you to order accordingly.

The location of Kamakura on Madison Avenue is indicative of his attachment to the Ivy League, it is located just a few steps from J.Press and Brooks Brothers.

The basic shirts, in oxford and with buttoned collar are at 79 dollars and are never sold. One can
however have a promotion, much like when you go to the hairdresser or subway: a shirt offered
after 16 purchases.
You’ll find spread collar shirts, poplin club collar shirts and oxford shirts in the
Ivy style, for which the book author The Ivy Look Illustrator Graham Marsh has contributed greatly.

Iv Tissues

The fabrics are imported from a semi-arid region of China: this is Xinjiang cotton. This specific climate allows a fiber longer than normal cotton and that more premium cottons such as the Supima.

Once woven, the result competes smoothly with eg Egyptian cotton. The texture is also somewhat
peculiar, slightly stitched and made from a simple needle. The method is very similar to that of polo, but it rarely gives such a convincing result.
One can almost speak of high-performance material, and it’s rarely a good mix to use them with
tailoring shirts because of a really complicated performance. Kamakura is one of the few brands that is able
to do it well, with a nice cut and a very good quality / price ratio: the shirt is worth less than 100 dollars.

If you want to go further, Kamakura has recently launched its tailor-made program (but it can hardly be considered without going there, unless you go to a tailor / retoucher to make sure your measurements are taken). The available fabrics go up to a 300 titration: this gives an extremely fine cotton fiber and therefore a really soft material, very close to the silk. This program starts at 180 dollars (that is to say the price of a good mid-range shirt in France, so it’s worth the cost).

V How To Buy: Selection And Order

At 79 dollars the shirt, one obtains a price in euro of about 59 euros. Knowing that the delivery is free from 138 dollars, the most profitable remains to order two (which is worth you more or less to 100 euros).
Obviously, as you import from Japan, you will unfortunately have a 20% tax, which will make you a shirt at more or less 65-70 euros per unit. It is really honest given the quality.
Since international shipping is free, it is not really cost effective to go through a proxy to bypass the customs fees.

Kamakura High-End Shirts 1

Dobby Shirt

You know, you are always told to save money by opting for lesser-known brands, but still of quality. The reasoning is also valid for the fabrics: an original Dobby cotton and good quality does not necessarily need to come from a world famous Italian mill
Short, with this kind of savings, you get an original Dobby cotton shirt, With 7 points to centimeters, English seams and mother-of-pearl buttons for less than 100 euros (we can just reproach a 80/2 titration a little coarse, but that does not remove much on this kind of texture).
We have already spoken a little about titrations: to give you an idea, beyond 180 we arrive on a texture close to silk. Suddenly, we are on a fabric of an exceptional softness but more fragile. It is in any case a fineness of thread that is very rarely found in ready to wear, and which reaches dizzying prices. At about 140 euros, you have the assurance of having the shirt with the most beautiful fabric of all your wardrobe (attention, as it has been said the fabric will be more fragile, it will really take care so that, It is a lasting minimum).

Stitched Cotton Shirt

Xinjiang cotton can also be used on low titrations, here 50/2. This level of titration involves a darn thick cotton, which is actually used for cotton quilted, ie the material of polo shirts.
In short, we are not on a cotton long sleeve, but rather on a shirt Ivy League with the buttoned collar traditional with a beautiful touch of originality on the material, it is a perfect model to wear for example under a big knit sweater.

Go Further: The Folder Guide

I updated the shirt guide, on the same model as the costume guide: it is even more optimized to buy online and will give you lots of good plans to buy shirts of prestigious workshops for three times nothing. If you have already purchased the first folder guide, you will receive a free update of it.
In short, it goes out Sunday 28 August.

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