The 19th Century Fashion

Fops, dandies, mirliflores, small gouged, beautiful lion (nes), gummy, young France, deer, deer, yellow gloves… all the fashionable copurchic of the century by Victor Hugo. In the twentieth century, click here .MODE

OF THE BEGINNING OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. Young man in the forefront of fashion 1802. Costume Parisien . Year 11 (1802), plate 439 .Measurements in-8 ° (about près22 x 14 cm). Down Sweater Swan. Hessian coat . Etching colored. Note on the left that this image was taken from the newspaper of the time.

KISS THE CAPUCINE. This print is perhaps the nineteenth century, but probably no time. Although laid the paper is thick and yellow with spots. Dimensions: 24 x 31.5 cm. Kissing the nasturtium is to kiss a partner in turning her back and holding hands. It is remarkable clothes and short hair curly but of all the characters. In France there are many teenagers themed games kissing. Several prints from the early nineteenth century to give examples: the kiss guessed (discern that now embraces the eyes are closed), kiss his shadow (a young woman comes between a wall and a light to kiss his shadow so that a young man tries to get between), kiss the underside of the candlestick (a kissing game that involves chandeliers), the kiss nasturtium (kiss a partner in turning her back and holding her hands see photographs ), the kiss to religious (kissing through the bars of a chair) etc. Several of these games are described herein .

THE FASHIONABLE. Original lithograph by Paul Gavarni (1804-1866), which can be dated between 1830 and 1843, representing “small fashionable” situation.Paul Gavarni, whose real name Sulpice Guillaume Chevalier, is a specialty of the representation of young Parisians fashionable under Louis Philippe and the Second Empire. It is particularly known for his illustrations of the Carnival of Paris. Here the young fashionable women and men are drawn in their daily lives: ride, painting, greeting each other, praying, talking, facing the wind … “Little Fashionables. By Gavarni. Pl. 35 “”Published by Charles Tilt 86 Fleet Street.”” Lith.Benard rue de l’Abbaye # 4. “”At Aubert, I [said] Eur J [orld] al caricature gallery véro dodat. “. Dimensions: 32.5 x 40.2 cm. Stains, rips 2 at the top of the sheet with tape on the back. The publishing house Aubert was created in 1829 and based in Paris at Passage Vero-Dodat. It publishes La Caricature from 1830 until the end of the title in 1843. This is an illustrated satirical weekly. It publishes apart lithographs log images as loose leaf, like this. As for Charles Tilt (86 of Fleet Street), it is a contemporary London publisher Aubert.

THE CALICO. Engraving ‘The Day of Taste, No 30’ entitled ‘The Russomania’. Holding the right character is the one that takes the calico as shown in many other prints as in a print preserved in the Library of France ( see here ) dated from 1817 where three men are named after a fabric (cashmere, calico, beijing) with the main text: “Beware there !! There is a real difference between the French Casimir, the Banner of Paris and Pekin real English! “.
In the early nineteenth century, after the First Empire, it is fashionable for men to have military air. Horse wear, boots and spurs, are no longer tacky even in society.We are given the English tunes, Russian soldier etc. This mode is caricatured in a vaudeville entitled Battle of the mountains or La Folie Beaujon , represented for the first time in July 1817 at the Variety Theatre. The text is available here: books.google.com . This writes the Mercure de France in August 1817 about this piece: “We asked a stranger who was returning from Paris, he had noticed during his stay:” I saw , replied there, all the military in civilian and military in all bourgeois “.We have a crowd of people who were passionate about the profession of arms since peace is made. Everyone wants to look like campaigning; and he who has never been to the barrier when it could meet the enemy, now bears a mustache and spurs as a hussar officer; it’s through the day, and it was difficult for him to escape to the authors of the Battle of the mountains , in the pungent magazine they made all the follies of fashion. To make this more prominent ridiculous, they showed us in the person of a Mr. Calico , dealer Vivienne Street; his warlike accoutrement do better contrast that with his peaceful profession … “P. Avenel wrote in 1866 in The Banners :” The suit that Calicots affected to bear in 1817 and Brunet had reproduced on the stage, was composed of: boots adorned with spurs, white pants falling on the boot, yellow vest pique dress chicory cream (expression of the then tailor) is green mixed with white. ”

THE GANDIN. Engraving entitled ‘The Boulevard of Ghent in Paris’ ( ‘The Supreme Bon-Ton # 27.’). The dude is a dandy of the era of fashionable and dandies. It differs from the latter in particular by its name that has no Anglo-Saxon connotation. Alfred Delvau the date of mid-nineteenth century; This does not seem right considering the engraving representing a scene from the time of the Second Restoration (1815-1830). In his Dictionary of slang , 1867, Alfred Delvau wrote: “The word has only ten years I do not know who created Maybe he born alone, by allusion.. the luxurious gloves that these gentlemen give to the girls, or the boulevard deGand (Italian) on which they walk their idleness. ” The term ‘glove’ is sometimes written ‘gent’; and it is true that the sides (or part) of Italians boulevard called Boulevard of Ghent under the Second Restoration in memory of exile in Ghent King Louis XVIII during the Hundred Days (1815) .. . and as part of Paris is very fashionnable, hordes of stylish one meets there. A gandinerie is an action in the manner of dandy: gandiner. “The kid has a watch chain, very expensive clothes, a silk hat of 22 francs. And all the little man in the toilet. Nothing of the child, nor the abandonment nor gaiety nor game thoughts but already have ideas of relations, the flair of social conventions, the living arrangement in such a world famous for good , appetite for such a circle, a car and hitched the dandy aspiring: this child. . a modern generation rises to the moment, which will be just that: a generation of dudes. ” Goncourt Journal (1861). There would be the claim in the fop; Finally, in that which is so designated in the second half of the nineteenth century. Perhaps he saw well because he is born with the return of the monarchy (Louis XVIII) and gives military tunes. As seen on the print, he happens to wear a corset like many elegant at that time.

THE DANDY. Young man fashion 1823. Her outfit is quite refined…. “Habit with metal buttons cashmere trousers satin striped velvet waistcoat over a waistcoat jacket lined with silk and trimmed with chinchilla” We note his fine shoes and fishnet stockings. from the Journal des Dames and methods (2204 board) founded in Paris in 1797 and whose stone Mésangère quickly becoming the director.

The ELEGANT. Plate 32 entitled ‘Costume Parisien’ with the caption: “cloth frock trimmed with silk gances. Vest in the Signet in cashmere according to VintageMatters.Net. Cashmere trousers. The plate number suggests it is either a special edition of the Journal des Dames and options , or a vintage copy by foreign example.

LITTLE-MASTER. “Paris. Little Mistress.”

THE HORSEMAN LONGCHAMPS. “Modes of Paris. “Plate 466″ Petit Courrier des Dames. Boulevard Italians No. 2 near the passage of the Opera. Long-Champs costume. Habit square trimmed horse shaped buttons vest Piqué from behind, Suede panties, British Boots Castor gray Gerard. ” The underline was probably originally cut. Engraving color, detached from a journal period. It is yellowed and was folded in half. The original image is triply interesting for we find at least three topics I discussed in previous articles and the latter: the boulevard of the Italians, the English and Longchamps mode. The three modes of walks drawn include: on foot, on horseback and by car and many other interesting items on the fashion of the time. Le Petit Courrier des Dames is published from 1822 to 1868. It was in July 1821 that is created by Thierry Donatine the New Journal of Women Small or mail options, theaters, literature and arts , published by ” letters from women of society and artists. ” Its title changes the following year to become the Petit Courrier New ladies or log modes . It has a bidécadaire periodicity and contains 8 pages of text and 7 prints. The format is averaged 12,5x20cm. He continued until 1868, having published more than 3600 boards. The models are presented front and back.Le Journal des Dames did the same at the end of 1825.

THE ROMANTIC. Romantic engraving probably from a book of the early nineteenth century, engraved by Dupree from Monnet (probably Charles Monnet 1732 – after 1808).

Medieval fashion. Illustration of Fashion , from 1837, of a man in an inspired interior of the Middle Ages.

THE ARTIST. The artist is a prominent figure of the nineteenth century French. Etching signed “in 1839 Célestin Nanteuil” 20.8 x 27.1 cm (sheet size for the image only 11.8 x 17.8 cm) and entitled “Amoroso” from the Italian “Loving” , a term used in french, music, to signify, “tenderly, lovingly.” This image comes from the weekly magazine called “The Artist” published from 1831 to 1904. The magazine presents texts and illustrations, some of which in full-page without text on the back, like this. Célestin Nanteuil (1813-1873) is an artist one of the “young France” romantic. He attended Victor Hugo, Alexandre Dumas, Théophile Gautier and seem to be close to Gerard de Nerval. He participated in 1830 in the battle (theatrical) Hernani.

THE LIONS. In the nineteenth century other fashionable people take Refined names, Fine, Lions … PONSARD, François (1814-1867), The Lion in love, comedy in five acts, in verse , ninth edition, Paris, Michel Levy , 1866. 114 pages, 15,2x23cm, hardcover, half leather navy blue, smooth back, gilded finial, as part worn leather. Many foxing paper. 1866 is the date of the first publication. So it seems that the work was reissued many times that year.

LIONS 1855. Print with four lions, including one child, in 1855. “THE LION – June 1855 – Journal of New Men and Methods.-Specialties Tailors.-Draperies and tall New House Dubois Young-published by the Society of Payment newspapers combined. – People subscribe to Office: Rue St. Anne. 64 in Paris. – May not be reproduced.-Print. Mariton – Für ganz Deutschland ber CH Müller in Aachen. “This print of the second half of the nineteenth century seems to be specifically printed by the printing Mariton for Germany. I have found no reference on a publication entitled “Journal of New Men modes”. As against the “Maison Dubois Young” exists at this time as the Mariton printing and the “Society of Newspapers together Mode” installed at 64 rue Ste Anne in Paris. Frame dimensions: 28 x 19.5 cm.

THE LION AND THE Panth È RE. If we use a lot of the names ‘lion’ and ‘lion’ to designate certain elegant nineteenth century, that of ‘panther’ is much rarer.Print G. Fontaffard entitled “The Lion and the Leopard”: “Ms. St … does not corset, but Mr door …. “Originating from Today Journal of Ridiculous modes , plate 68, 4th year, in July 1841. It is 27.8 x 22.1 cm (entire paper) .We remark that men can also wear a corset.

THE LIONESS. Full page illustration of the chapter on ‘Lioness’ by Eugene Guinot (1812-1861) of the second volume of The French painted by themselves: moral encyclopedia nineteenth century, published by L. Curmer of 1840-1842.

THE LIONESS. Play Augier & Foussier, Poor Lionesses , Michel Levy, 1858 1 st edition. The term ‘lioness’ means a f emme fashionable in the nineteenth century, with a taste for the toilet and free customs. “She wants to ride, go to any hunting at all the races, bet, race, smoking, become lioness finally” Mary A., French painted by themselves, t. 5, The Stepmother, 1842. They are also called ‘lioness’ woman ‘for’ with worldly success and being a topic of conversation in fashion. The definition of lioness given in the dictionary of slang (second edition, Paris, E. Dentu, 1867) Alfred Delvau “Woman fashion – there are thirty. It was “a little being pretty, pretty, who handled perfectly gun and whip, rode like a lancer, strong prized cigarette and did not disdain the chilled champagne. “Today bride or maid, or lady little lady, the lioness called his real name – is hussy . ” .

”  DISTRICT OF RED BALL. The night there are no Ranelagh or Mabille, or Château-Rouge. ” Mabille , Ranelagh and red-Château are three famous houses balls nineteenth century. by Alfred Delvau ( Dictionary of slang , 1867) the red ball is a “girl or woman gallant who lives in the area of the Red Ball in the Faubourg Montmartre. As the words never fail to men to designate women – at least a certain class of women – that name, who succeeded that of Lorette, which dates from the same era, was himself replaced by a host others, such as marble girls, pre-catelanières, casinettes, musardines etc. “.

Elegance of 1845. Image of a magazine in South America apparently dated 1845 with the text: “El Corréo Ultramar” [which may result in ‘The Courier Overseas’]’ In paris 10 rue du Faubourg Montmartre “. The three are fashionable fashion of that era.

THE GENTLEMAN. Print Ham (1818-1879) entitled “Our nice men” with the caption: THE DEVIL PREJUDICE: – You know my old tailor Croesus? I married his daughter .. I was busted, here I am again! … – I see you knew well take your measurements! “A busted is a person who has ruined the game or is being made ‘fleeced’ by a woman of bad company. This board is part of a series of twenty lithographs of Ham (1818-1879) published in 1846 (Paris, Aubert) entitled: Our nice men: taste, twist, elegance, manners and pleasures of the gilded youth, of just about 35 cm long. This lithograph was made a little cut and 33.7 x 24 cm. The gentlemen who portrayed therein are hairy with long mustaches and impressive favorites (sideburns), plaid clothes and scratches, high collars, ties resembling huge bow ties, tight pants bell-bottom and shoes lined with a bow on the front.

JOURNAL OF PEOPLE YOUNG. Journal of young people Published Under the moral and literary Miss S. Ulliac Trémadeure. 6th volume of the second series.Twentieth year. Paris, the newspaper office, 88, rue de Richelieu. 1852 Book Dimensions: 26.3 x 17 cm.

THE COMPANY AND THE HIGH-LIFE . The Company and the High-life, addresses in Paris and Province, 1903, fourth edition (the first edition appeared in 1883 and the second in 1890, third in 1895), Nancy, Berger-Levrault et Cie Printing, 1903. part A to N. 708 pages bound format in-8 ° (21 x 13.5 cm). Gilt edges.Binding a little run, some small spots inside but all very correct.
Each patronymic included nationality, surname, titles of nobility, the Head of Family or branch, functions, grades and dignities of Mr. past and present, the decorations, family name Lady, children, accomodations and residences , the Post, telegraph with distance in km and telephone etc. The book is preceded by the descendants of the Princesses of the House of France and the House Napoleon Bonaparte married to foreign princes and sovereigns.

On sale at antique friends:

Available at the antique Christian Pécout in Mont Louis on Tet : ORANGE OR MODERN JUDGMENT OF PARIS. Aquatint early nineteenth century by Louis-Philibert Debucourt (1755-1832) artist and sculptor, 44 x 33 cm. Mahogany wand. This engraving shows young men playing the ancient judgment of Paris.Instead of a golden apple on which was labeled “the most beautiful” is an orange that is offered to the winner. It is a short-haired Unbelievable “at Titus” (see “Hairstyles”) who plays the role of Paris and three Merveilleuses those of Hera, Athena and Aphrodite. PRICE: 800 €

  1. “Modes of Paris – Petit Courrier des Dames – Paris, Boulevart Italians, 1. Dresses and Madame Confections PIEFFORT …” The date of October 1860 is shown in ink.Dimensions: 27.6 x 18.5 cm.
  2. “The illustrated mode – Offices Journal 56 rue Jacob Paris – Toilet Ms. BREANT-CASTEL 58 bis r.Ste Anne – forbidden – Display Mode, 1866 No. 34 “.Print roughly 37x 27 cm
  3. Print ofThe Pink Gazette dated “1 August 1862” with “Campaign Toilets”. The legend shows which stores have inspired this image for dresses, hats, flowers, ribbons and trimmings, underwear, belts, handkerchiefs, jewelry, costume Boy, perfumes and soaps. This is a kind of advertising that already exists in some editions of the Mercure Galant seventeenth century. Dimensions: 27.2 x 18.5 cm.
  4. “The illustrated mode – Offices Journal 56 rue Jacob Paris – Toilets of My BREANT-CASTEL 28 r Nde Pts of Champs – forbidden – Display Mode, 1870 No. 76”.Print roughly 37x 26.5 cm signed Anaïs Toudouze?
  5. The methods and Toiletsof 15 October 1893 No. 42. On the cover page, article titled ‘coquetry’, and illustration with the caption: “Toilets noticed the Grand Fall price Bois de Boulogne.”

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